Menswear, menswear, menswear. It’s all I’ve been thinking about for the last two weeks. London Collections Men AW16 was Thursday 7th to Monday 11th January and I’ve been busily collecting my favourite looks from the shows over on Pinterest, and scanning through all the backstage snaps over on Instagram.
An important message is next season’s trends are already being worn. Steff Yotka, of Vogue.com:
The season’s stranger trends are already percolating on the streets of London, from bejeweled earrings to cropped fur jackets. The bottom line is that guys are looking to experiment with their fashion choices, and brands have taken notice.
It’s another example of sidewalk and catwalk being closer than we think in the cycle of fashion. But for the majority of consumers, AW16 is still a whole set of holidays away – so read on for your guide to the biggest men’s fashion trends for AW 2016.
Khaki, navy and tobacco
The big three key colours were khaki, navy and tobacco – a sort of rich burnished brown that worked beautifully on shoes, bags and waist belts.
Khaki (unsurprisingly for autumn) popped up everywhere, across all garments, but in a mix of unusual fabrics and without some of the military touches it can have – more often in womenswear, but blokes like an epaulette too. Navy was often used for outerwear while tobacco went from subtle accessories to full caramel-coloured looks.
These three colours aren’t particularly revolutionary for autumn-winter or menswear. Instead, they might’ve been selected in part because they can be worn in a classic style (for example, tobacco brogues) or something more trend-led (like a very wide and baggy dark navy suit).
Bold primary accents
The accent colours were much bolder and violent – plenty of primary colours, primary colour + black, and some dashes of Pantone’s Colour of the Year 2016 combo, Serenity blue and Rose Quartz pink.
ON THE STREET
Key colour takeaway
These colours highlight a trend for strong, dominating visions of men with a nod to traditional autumnal colours – or alternatively, with the softer powder shades, something more subtle and potentially androgynous.
If you’re into menswear then you’ll have already had the memo saying “Shearling’s back” in capital letters – and it was. Shearling and teddy bear fur were a big feature for outerwear, but in two extremes: either as accents to leather 70s-style coats, or just all-over full fur in mainly neutral tones like tan, cream and tobacco, rather than shearling linings or anything more traditional.
Teddy bear cropped up in AW15 for womenswear so it’ll be interesting to see whether it’s still hanging about for this year.
ON THE STREET
Evening wear materials, translated into casual and daywear shapes, were another key trend for AW16 menswear. Crushed and striped velvet, flat velvet, organza, satin, metallic PVC and sequins were used for zip-up jackets, trousers, tuxedo jackets and coats in all different colours.
Key materials takeaway
These materials do hook into the continuing 70s trend with more ‘flamboyant’ garments contrasting with the ‘manly’ materials of leather and shearling. But it’s also a way to work out which ‘feminine’ (and often more interesting) bits of fashion can be applied to clothing in a way that’ll be accepted by male-identifying consumers .
Bigger than big
Imagine Patrick Bateman x Happy Mondays: menswear silhouettes were big. Like, really big – huge shoulders, wide slouchy trousers, giant anoraks and puffa jackets, big knits and oversized sleeves. Even the shoes were huge.
There were plenty of layers to add to the feel of ginormous-ness: padded jackets over gilets over jumpers over t-shirts; long tees over shorts over leggings; and wraps of fabric as scarves and waist belts.
The hugeness was also emphasised by sportswear silhouettes, another key theme. Lots of ski references, with overalls and ‘mangarees’ (coined it – nearly), boiler suits, face coverings and big hoods. Other sportswear references including baseball jackets and bombers, simple gym wear like zip-through funnel neck sweaters, and basketball vests + shorts + leggings.
ON THE STREET
Key silhouette takeaway
It could be a reflection of the size-gain health trend among male-identifying consumers, or the need for layering on a planet where climate patterns are increasingly erratic. There’s a touch of aggression there too – maybe the menswear response to the global security issues I picked up with the SS16 womenswear translucency trend.
Liked this article? You might be interested in these:
- Ethical Fashion Alternatives for SS16
- 10 Fashion Illustrators to Follow on Instagram for Fashion Week
- SS16 Womenswear Trends: The Triangle
Check out The Guardian’s mens fashion trends AW16 round up too for more ideas and insight.
Thanks for reading.
What trends are you excited about in menswear?
Let me know in the comments.